Stunning electric blues amid towering peaks in the Peruvian Andes
Laguna 69 is one of the most popular and well-trodden hikes in Peru, and for good reason. The strenuous hike promises stunning views over the surrounding mountains, and crystalline azure lakes in some of the world’s cleanest air. If you’re backpacking through Peru, this one’s a no-brainer. Here’s everything you need to know about the Laguna 69 hike.
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Where is Laguna 69?
Located in the Ancash region of Peru, the Laguna 69 lies just outside Huaraz. The hike takes around 5 hours (return) and is super popular among backpackers. The lake sits 4500m above sea level, and the hike rewards you with beautiful azure waters and a stunning backdrop of towering snowy peaks. So how the heck do you get there?
How To Get To Laguna 69?
The two main places to get to Laguna 69 are Trujillo from the North and Lima from the South. The main bus stations in these cities provide services to Huaraz, which is where you want to head for any trip to Laguna 69.
From Trujillo
From Trujillo, take the Linea bus direct to Huaraz, which takes between 10 and 12 hours. There are other services, which you can check out here. Something to note is the Linea bus is one of the only daytime services I’ve been on in Peru that barely stopped, so make sure you bring snacks, water, and coffee.
From Lima
From Lima, the bus journey to Huaraz is between 8 and 10 hours, which you can do on a night bus and double up on savings on your transport and accommodation. Check out the bus services from Lima to Huaraz here.
Where To Stay For The Laguna 69 Hike?
Huaraz
Being the largest and only city in the area, there are plenty of places to stay for all budgets; from comfortable, private rooms with hot water and solid wifi to budget backpacker options, you’ll find it in Huaraz. There’s a Selina in Huaraz; always a safe bet for a decent hostel, good wifi, and a hot shower. Otherwise, discover more accommodation here.
Yungay
There are only a handful of accommodation options in Yungay as it is a significantly smaller town. I stayed at an awesome spot named Tullpa Rumy. Although it’s a bit of a mission to get to (40 minutes outside of Yungay toward the start of the Laguna hike), the place is peaceful, has an epic backdrop, and the owner, Jesus, was super friendly and attentive.
Best Time Of Year To Hike?
There is no best time of year to hike Laguna 69, as the region can be pleasant all year round. For example, all the photos you see in this article were taken from my hike at the end of August 2022. Due to the altitude, and mountain environment, the weather on the Laguna 69 hike can be unpredictable and change rapidly, so it’s best to prepare for all weather, no matter what time of year.
The History Of Laguna 69
The lake is part of the Huascaran National Park. A UNESCO world heritage site since 1985. Because of the national park status, all the lakes needed to be recorded throughout, and while some were named, some were only numbered.
Tips for Hiking Laguna 69
The Altitude
Even for the fittest and most experienced hikers, the altitude can be an issue while hiking Laguna 69. Although I’m relatively fit and spend most of my time surfing, training, and hiking, I could feel the altitude toward the top and had to stop every 20 meters to catch my breath.
Staying Outside Of Huaraz
Anywhere outside of Huaraz is rural and more difficult to get to. There are a handful of accommodations in Yungay; a 1-hour “Collectivo” ride from Huaraz, or you can stay 40 minutes toward the beginning of the hike at Tullpy Rumy.
Although Tullpy was awesome, it was a hassle to get to; the Collectivo from Huaraz to Yungay, then a taxi to the accommodation. However, this extra effort meant I could be up early and at the lake before anyone else the following day. From Tullpy, you can get a 30-minute taxi to the start of the hike.
Logistically, it’s easier to stay in Huaraz, get a collective to Yungay, then a taxi to the start of the hike, or easier still, via a tour including all the transport. (It works out cheaper to do it this way) However, you’re then limited to specific times and sharing the lake with lots of other people.
National Park Entry Fee
There is a 30-sol fee (USD 8) to enter the national park, and you need to pay this in cash. Because I started walking at 6 am, there was no one there, so I didn’t end up paying.
Temperature
If you’re planning on staying closer to Yungay and starting the hike early, it is bloody freezing in the morning. When I started my hike at my accommodation Tullpa Rumy, the air was 4°c.
To Tour Or Not To Tour?
This is the biggest question you need to answer when hiking Laguna 69, and there is no right or wrong way to do it. Although it seems counter-intuitive, it’s cheaper to book a tour and have all the transport included. But you’re then with a large group, limited to specific times, and will have to match others’ hiking pace.
If like me, you prefer independent hiking, the hike is straightforward and is one single path 5kms long that takes you directly to the lake. You’d have to have serious internal navigation issues to get lost here.
The downside to hiking Laguna 69 solo is you’ll have to make your way to the lake, from Huaraz or Yungay. Because of the time it’d take you to do this; you won’t beat the crowds hiking independently from Huaraz.
Staying in Yungay, take a taxi to the start of the hike first thing in the morning and be there before anyone. I arranged my taxi through my host Jesus at Tullpy, and I arrived at the trail around 6.15 am and was up at the lake around 8.30 am.
What To Take On The Laguna 69 Hike?
- Water
- Snacks
- Camera Gear
- Winter Jacket
- Hiking Boots
- Coffee
Laguna 69 Frequently Asked Questions
The Laguna 69 hike is just over 5km, typically taking 3 hours to hike up and 2 hours to descend. However, this depends on your fitness and motivation. I got up there in around 1.5-2 hours and returned in 1h20.
Head to Huaraz and book a tour or make your way to the start of the Laguna 69 trail via Collectivo and taxi. Otherwise, stay in Yungay and take a taxi in the morning.
You can get to Laguna 69 via a tour or Collectivo bus, then a taxi via Yungay. Yungay is around a 1-hour drive, then to the trailhead is another 1 hour by taxi. This is why tours often work out cheaper than visiting independently.
There is a campsite just outside the national park where you can camp. Camping is not allowed in the national park itself, but being so vast, if you’re an experienced camper/hiker, you’d have no trouble camping close to the lake or along the trail.
At the lake, there is a sign saying no swimming is allowed, and I’m not sure if tour guides allow swimming. Because I was the only one there at 8 am, I did swim. And by swim, I mean I jumped in for 10 seconds and got straight back out! It was freezing, and I had to wrap myself in a blanket and focus on my breathing for ten minutes afterward.
Laguna 69 - Summary
The Laguna 69 hike is stunning, and hiking it solo is even more rewarding. If you’re willing to get up early and do the mission of staying in Yungay, you’ll have the lake to yourself. And yes, it’s incredible. For me, hiking Laguna 69 solo was an incredible experience, although it was a hassle getting there and I probably spent more than what I would have on an organized tour.
The solo time at the top of the lake under the bright blue morning sky was truly unbeatable and something I won’t forget anytime soon. I hope this article has shed some light on what you need to know when hiking Laguna 69, and I would strongly encourage you to do it, whether on a tour or solo. You won’t regret it.